Category: Guides

Mount It Correctly First

A scope has to be mounted level and torqued to spec before zeroing means anything — a canted scope will shoot progressively further off to one side as range increases, which looks like a zeroing problem but isn’t.

Bore-Sight Before You Shoot

Bore-sighting gets you roughly on paper at 25–50 yards, saving ammunition and frustration versus starting blind.

Start Close, Then Extend

Shoot a 3-shot group from a stable rest at 25 yards first. Adjust to bring that group to your point of aim, then move to 100 yards and repeat. Most hunting rifles are zeroed at 100 yards, though some hunters prefer 200 yards for flatter trajectory — check your cartridge’s drop chart.

Read the Turrets Correctly

Elevation and windage turrets are typically labeled with the direction impact moves, not the direction you’re turning — double-check your specific scope’s markings before adjusting.

Confirm With a Cold-Bore Shot

A first shot from a clean, cold barrel often lands slightly differently than later shots in the same string — which matters for hunting, where your one shot is a cold-bore shot. After zeroing, let the barrel cool and fire one more single shot to confirm your true cold-bore zero.

Find scopes, mounts, and everything else you need in GTO Armory’s full scopes, sights, and optics selection.

Two Systems, Same Purpose

MOA (minute of angle) and MRAD (milliradian) are both units for describing an angle — how far a reticle’s markings represent at a given distance, so you can hold over or dial for drop and wind without guessing. Neither is inherently more accurate; they’re different units, like inches and centimeters.

MOA, in Practical Terms

One MOA equals roughly 1 inch at 100 yards and scales linearly — 2 inches at 200 yards, and so on. Most MOA scopes adjust in 1/4-MOA clicks. MOA’s inch-based math lines up naturally with how most American shooters already think about group size and distance.

MRAD, in Practical Terms

One milliradian equals about 3.6 inches at 100 yards and also scales linearly. MRAD scopes commonly adjust in 0.1-mil clicks. MRAD pairs cleanly with metric range and wind data, which is part of why it’s the standard in military and many competitive long-range disciplines.

What Actually Matters When Choosing

• Match your reticle and turrets — an MOA reticle needs MOA turrets, MRAD needs MRAD. Mixing systems makes holdover math needlessly confusing.
• Consistency across your gear matters more than which system you pick.
• For most hunting at typical ranges, either system works fine — this matters most past a couple hundred yards.

Compare MOA and MRAD scope options in GTO Armory’s full scopes, sights, and optics selection.

Before You Touch the Sight

Make sure your arrow rest, nocking point, and cam timing are correct first — a shop can check this in a few minutes if you’re unsure. Sighting in a bow that isn’t tuned just chases a moving target.

Start Close

Begin at 10–20 yards. From a stable rest, shoot a group of 3–5 arrows at a single point of aim and look at where the group actually lands.

Adjust the Pin, Not Your Aim

Move your top sight pin in the direction the group landed — if arrows hit low and left, move the pin down and left. This feels backwards at first: you’re moving the pin to match where the arrow actually goes, so centering that pin next time puts the arrow there. Make small adjustments, then reshoot to confirm.

Work Your Way Out

Once your closest pin is dialed in, back up to your next intended distance (commonly 20, 30, and 40 yards) and repeat for each pin.

Confirm, Don’t Assume

Shoot each distance again on a different day and in different conditions to confirm the zero holds. Anything that changes on the bow afterward — new arrow weight, a different broadhead, a restrung cable — means re-checking your sight.

Find sights, rests, and everything else you need in GTO Armory’s full archery and bow hunting selection.

Same Job, Two Different Approaches

A broadhead’s job is simple: cut a wound channel large enough for a fast, ethical harvest. Fixed-blade and mechanical (expandable) broadheads both get there by different mechanical routes — the right one depends on your bow setup and what you’re hunting.

Fixed-Blade Broadheads

A fixed-blade broadhead’s cutting edges are locked at full width from the moment it leaves the bow. No moving parts to potentially fail on impact, generally deeper penetration, and better performance through heavier bone. The trade-off: fixed blades typically fly slightly less like field points, so practicing with your actual broadheads matters more.

Mechanical Broadheads

A mechanical broadhead flies closed, at a smaller diameter, and opens on impact — giving it a flight path nearly identical to field points. The trade-off is that opening the blades consumes some kinetic energy, and there’s a moving mechanism that has to function correctly on impact.

Which One Fits Your Setup

• Lower draw weight or draw length: fixed-blade broadheads generally penetrate more reliably with less energy to spend.
• Heavier game or heavy bone: fixed blades hold up better.
• Want field-point-identical flight with minimal extra tuning: mechanicals are more forgiving.

Check Your State’s Rules

Some states restrict mechanical broadheads or set minimum cutting-diameter requirements. Check your state wildlife agency’s regulations before you hunt.

Compare fixed-blade and mechanical broadheads in GTO Armory’s full archery and bow hunting selection.

Why These Two Numbers Matter More Than Anything Else

Draw length and draw weight are the two measurements that determine whether a bow actually fits you — and unlike almost everything else in archery, they’re not really a matter of preference. Get them wrong and no amount of practice will fix your groups; get them right and even a budget bow will shoot well.

Finding Your Draw Length

The most reliable starting method: measure your wingspan (fingertip to fingertip with arms spread) in inches, then divide by 2.5. That gives a solid estimate, but the real test is at full draw — your bow arm should be nearly straight without locking, your anchor point should land consistently at the same spot, and you shouldn’t feel like you’re straining forward or cramped back to reach it. A recurve’s draw length is somewhat flexible; a compound bow’s draw length is a fixed mechanical setting that has to be dialed in for your body specifically, usually at a shop with a bow press or on an adjustable-cam model.

Finding Your Draw Weight

Draw weight is how much force it takes to pull the bow to full draw. More weight means a flatter arrow trajectory and more energy on impact, but only if you can pull it smoothly and shoot it repeatedly without fatigue or a flinch.

• New shooters: start lower than your ego wants to. You can move up in 5–10 lb increments as your form develops.
• Bowhunters: check your state’s minimum draw weight for big game and aim comfortably above it, not right at the line.
• Target/recreational shooters: consistency across a long session matters more than raw power.

Get Measured, Don’t Guess

A wingspan formula gets you in the right neighborhood, but nothing replaces being measured at full draw by someone who can watch your form.

Browse GTO Armory’s full archery and bow hunting selection, including adjustable-draw options that make dialing in your fit easier.

The Short Answer

In most states, GTO Armory can ship ammunition directly to your door with no special handling. A handful of states have their own laws that change how — or whether — online ammunition sales work, and GTO’s checkout system is built to follow those rules automatically based on the shipping address. This page explains what those rules are and why. It’s general public information, not legal advice — laws in this area change, and you should verify current requirements with your own state or local authorities, or an attorney, before relying on anything here.

States Where Online Ammunition Orders Route Through a Licensed Dealer

New York, Washington D.C., Massachusetts, Connecticut, Illinois, and New Jersey each have laws that affect how ammunition reaches a resident of that state. For orders shipping to these states, GTO’s checkout routes the order to a licensed local dealer for pickup and any required verification, rather than shipping directly to a residential address.

California: Currently Not Available

California is the one state GTO Armory does not ship ammunition to, for any address — this has been our policy since late August 2026. California law (Cal. Penal Code § 30312) generally requires ammunition sales to California residents to go through a face-to-face transfer with a licensed dealer, and separately requires ammunition sellers to hold a California Ammunition Vendor License (Cal. Penal Code § 30385). Rather than rely on a routing workaround, GTO made the decision not to sell ammunition into California at all. This is a deliberate compliance decision, not a product availability issue.

Do You Need a License to Buy Ammunition?

At the federal level, no — the ATF does not require any license to purchase ammunition (that’s different from firearms, which involve a background check through a licensed dealer). Most states don’t require one either. If you’re unsure whether your specific state or city has its own permit or licensing requirement, your state Attorney General’s office or local police department is the right place to check — not a retailer’s website.

General Age Requirements

Age requirements for buying ammunition can vary by state and by the type of ammunition (handgun vs. long-gun caliber). As a baseline, expect an 18+ requirement in most places, with some states requiring 21+ for handgun ammunition specifically. GTO’s checkout verifies age at purchase; where a state sets a different standard, that’s reflected automatically.

Louisiana (GTO Armory’s Home State)

Louisiana does not require a retail license to sell ammunition, and doesn’t impose a purchaser record-keeping requirement on ammunition sellers. Louisiana law does prohibit knowingly transferring ammunition to someone legally prohibited from possessing firearms, and separately bans armor-piercing ammunition.

This Page Isn’t Legal Advice

Laws around ammunition purchases and shipping change, sometimes without much notice, and can vary further at the county or city level in ways a state-level summary like this one won’t catch. If you have a specific legal question about whether you can purchase or possess ammunition where you live, the right resources are your state Attorney General’s office, local law enforcement, or an attorney.

Browse GTO Armory’s full ammunition selection — checkout will automatically apply the right rule for your shipping address.

Start With What You’ll Actually Use It For

The single biggest factor in choosing a first handgun isn’t caliber or brand — it’s intended use. A handgun for home defense, one for concealed carry, and one for range/target shooting each pull you toward different sizes, weights, and calibers. Trying to pick one gun that does all three equally well usually means a gun that does none of them particularly well.

Action Type: Revolver or Semi-Auto

A revolver is mechanically simple — pull the trigger, the cylinder rotates, it fires. There’s no slide to rack, no magazine to load, and very few ways for it to malfunction. That simplicity makes revolvers a genuinely good choice for a first handgun, especially for someone who wants minimal mechanical complexity to learn.

A semi-automatic pistol holds more rounds in a slimmer package, reloads faster, and is what most people picture when they think “handgun” today — which also means far more accessory, holster, and aftermarket support. The trade-off is a few more things to learn: racking the slide, magazine changes, and clearing the occasional malfunction.

Caliber: Don’t Overthink the First Choice

For a first handgun, 9mm is the practical default for semi-autos — ammunition is widely available and less expensive than larger calibers, recoil is manageable enough to shoot accurately and often, and modern 9mm defensive ammunition performs very well. For revolvers, .38 Special (with the option to also shoot .357 Magnum later in the same gun) is the equivalent starting point. Bigger isn’t automatically better: a caliber you can shoot accurately and comfortably beats a bigger caliber you flinch at.

Size and Concealability

• Full-size: easiest to shoot accurately, best for home defense or range use, hardest to conceal.
• Compact/mid-size: the most common all-around choice — small enough for daily carry, still comfortable enough to shoot well.
• Subcompact: the easiest to conceal, but a shorter grip and lighter weight make recoil more noticeable and accuracy harder to develop, especially for a first gun.

Fit Matters More Than Spec Sheets

Grip size, trigger reach, and how the sights naturally line up when you present the gun vary meaningfully between models, even within the same caliber and size class. Whatever the spec sheet says, the right first handgun is one that actually fits your hand well and that you can rack, load, and holster confidently.

All firearm purchases go through a federal background check and are subject to applicable state and local law.

GTO Armory’s handgun selection is being finalized as our Federal Firearms License moves through final ATF review. Browse what’s coming and sign up to be notified the moment online sales open.

The Core Trade-Off

A fixed blade gives up pocket convenience for strength, simplicity, and reliability. A folding knife gives up some of that strength for a compact size that disappears into a pocket or on a belt without a full sheath. Neither is objectively better — the right choice depends entirely on what you’re actually going to use it for.

Fixed Blades: Built for Hard Use

Because a fixed blade has no pivot, lock, or moving parts, there’s nothing to fail under hard use — no lock to disengage unexpectedly, no pivot to loosen over time. That makes fixed blades the standard choice for field dressing game, bushcraft and camp tasks, and any job where you’re driving the blade through resistant material. They’re also simpler to clean thoroughly, which matters after field dressing.

Folding Knives: Built for Everyday Carry

A folder’s whole design exists to solve one problem: carrying a useful blade comfortably, all day, without a sheath. Modern lock types (liner lock, frame lock, back lock, axis/crossbar lock) are strong enough for the vast majority of everyday cutting tasks, and a quality folder from a reputable maker is plenty reliable for anything short of genuinely hard use. The trade-off is a pivot point and lock mechanism that, however well made, is still a moving part a fixed blade doesn’t have.

Matching the Knife to the Job

• Hunting/field dressing: a fixed blade, typically 3–5 inches, in a drop-point or trailing-point pattern.
• Everyday carry: a folder in the 3–4 inch range with a pocket clip is hard to beat for convenience.
• Camp/bushcraft: a full-tang fixed blade built for batoning and heavier tasks.
• Backup/utility on a hunting trip: many hunters carry both — a fixed blade for the actual field dressing, a folder for everything else.

Steel Matters As Much As Shape

Whichever style you choose, the steel determines how the knife actually performs: harder steels (like S30V, S35VN, M390) hold an edge longer but take more effort to resharpen, while softer steels (like 8Cr13MoV, 1095) sharpen quickly and easily but need touch-ups more often. Stainless steels resist corrosion better, which matters most for a knife that’ll see wet conditions or salt air.

Compare fixed blades, folders, and everything in between in GTO Armory’s full knives and cutlery selection.

Same Caliber, Different Job

It’s easy to assume ammo is ammo as long as the caliber matches your gun, but target and hunting loads are built to do genuinely different things, and using the wrong one for the job shows up in your results.

Target/Range Ammo (FMJ)

Most target and practice ammunition uses a full metal jacket (FMJ) bullet — a lead core fully encased in a harder metal jacket, usually copper. FMJ bullets are built for reliable, consistent feeding and predictable flight, shot after shot, as cost-effectively as possible. They typically don’t expand on impact, which is exactly why they’re the wrong choice for hunting but the right, budget-friendly choice for putting rounds downrange at the range.

Hunting Ammo (Expanding Bullets)

Hunting loads are built around bullets designed to expand on impact — soft points, hollow points, and bonded or controlled-expansion designs (Nosler Partition, Hornady InterLock, Federal Fusion, and similar). Expansion transfers more energy into the target and creates a larger wound channel, which is what actually makes for a fast, ethical harvest. The trade-off is cost — hunting ammo almost always costs more per round than FMJ target loads, because the bullet construction is more complex.

What About Defensive Ammo?

Defensive ammunition (typically jacketed hollow points) shares some DNA with hunting ammo — both rely on controlled expansion — but they’re optimized differently: hunting loads are tuned for the game and distances being hunted, while defensive loads are tuned for reliable expansion through common barriers at typically much shorter distances, with an emphasis on minimizing overpenetration.

The Practical Rule

Practice with the cheapest reliable FMJ ammo you can find in your caliber — the goal is repetitions, not premium bullet performance. Then, before a hunt, pattern and zero with the actual hunting load you’ll carry, since point of impact can shift between bullet weights and constructions even in the same caliber. Never assume your practice zero holds exactly for a different load without checking.

Browse GTO Armory’s full ammunition selection, from bulk target loads to premium hunting rounds.

Start With the Distance, Not the Number

The most common mistake in scope shopping is chasing the highest magnification number on the box. More zoom isn’t automatically better — it narrows your field of view, makes the reticle more sensitive to movement, and does nothing for you at ranges you’ll never actually shoot. The right magnification is the one that matches the distances you actually shoot at.

Magnification by Use Case

• Close-range / brush hunting (0–100 yards): a low-power fixed scope or a 1-4x or 1-6x variable gives you a wide field of view for fast target acquisition in thick cover.
• General deer/hog hunting (up to 200–300 yards): a 3-9x is the long-standing standard for a reason — it covers the vast majority of realistic hunting shots without adding unnecessary bulk or weight.
• Longer-range hunting or varmint work (300–500 yards): a 4-12x or 4-16x gives you the extra reach to place a precise shot without going so high that mirage and movement make the picture unusable at hunting distances.
• Long-range target and precision shooting (500+ yards): 6-24x or higher variable scopes are built for this, usually paired with a first-focal-plane reticle so holdovers stay accurate at every magnification setting.

Fixed vs. Variable Power

A fixed-power scope is simpler, tougher, and usually lighter and less expensive than a variable of similar quality — a solid choice if you know your shooting distance won’t change much. A variable-power scope trades a little simplicity for real flexibility: dial down for a close, fast shot in the brush, dial up for a longer shot across a field, all on the same rifle.

Objective Lens Size Matters Too

The second number in a scope’s spec (the “40” in “3-9×40”) is the objective lens diameter in millimeters. A larger objective lens gathers more light, which matters most at dawn, dusk, and at high magnification — but it also sits higher above the bore and adds weight. For most hunting scopes, 40–44mm is the sweet spot; dedicated low-light or high-magnification setups often go to 50mm or larger.

One More Thing: Eye Relief

On any rifle with real recoil, eye relief (the distance your eye needs to be from the lens) isn’t a minor spec — it’s the difference between a clean sight picture and a scope cut over your eyebrow. Check the eye relief spec, especially on higher-recoil calibers, before magnification.

Compare magnification, objective size, and reticle options across GTO Armory’s full scopes, sights, and optics selection.